The FAA Handbook procedure
| Step | What the Handbook says | Source |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Prepare the head | Work on the manufactured head: it is more symmetrical about the shank than the shop head. File a flat on non-flush heads and center punch it. Back the rivet with wood or a bucking bar while punching. | Handbook pp. 4-45, 4-46 |
| 2. Drill the head | Use a drill one size smaller than the rivet shank; Figure 4-98 says 1/32 in smaller. With a power drill, set the bit on the rivet and turn the chuck a few turns by hand before starting. | Handbook pp. 4-45, 4-46 |
| 3. Depth | Drill to the depth of the head, with the drill at 90°. Too deep and the shank turns with the drill and tears the surrounding metal. | Handbook p. 4-45 |
| 4. Break the head | Remove the head by breaking it off, using a punch as a lever. | Handbook p. 4-46 |
| 5. Punch the shank | Punch out the shank with a suitable backup, preferably wood. If it will not come, drill through it with a small drill without elongating the hole. | Handbook p. 4-46 |
| 6. Replace | If removed correctly the rivet need not go up a size. If the hole is enlarged, deformed or damaged, ream for the next larger rivet. | Handbook pp. 4-45, 4-46 |
Removal tools, as listed
| Tool | Type | Listed spec | Where |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rivet Removal Tool Kit with Number Bits | Drill guide kit | Collets and bits #40, #30, #21, #10; 1/4"-28 thread; accepts cobalt and HSS bits; drills off the head | US · Yardstore |
| Rivet Removal Tool 53-400 (12-00817) | Drill guide kit | Bits and guides #40, #30, #21, #10; HSS; 1/4-28 thread; hand drill with 3/8" or 1/2" chuck; removes AN470 and blind rivets, not 1/4" | US · Aircraft Spruce |
| Loyds Rivet Drill Guide (12-03749) | Drill guide set | 3/32" #41, 1/8" #31, 5/32" #21, 3/16" #13, 1/4" D; hardened C1144 steel guides; cobalt jobber bits | US · Aircraft Spruce |
| Drill Stop 5 Piece Set | Spring drill stop | #40, #30, #21, #10, 1/4"; coiled spring; colour-coded | US · Yardstore |
| Econ Rivet Gun Punch (12-02393 to -02395) | Gun punch | 5/32", 3/16", 1/4"; .401 shank; 3-1/2" long; heat-treated steel; "to remove rivet after collar is split" | US · Aircraft Spruce |
As the sellers list them, no prices. Yardstore names link to our catalogue page with its source (checked 29 September 2026). Aircraft Spruce names link to the seller's own page, read 28 October 2026. A blank spec means the listing does not state it.
How to choose, per the FAA Handbook
The Handbook names the tools. A spring drill stop "is a wise investment": adjusted properly, it prevents excessive penetration and keeps the chuck from marring the surface (p. 4-19). A pin punch drives out pins and bolts, in 1/32 in steps from 1/16 to 3/8 in (p. 4-7).
A rivet cutter does not remove rivets. The Handbook's rivet cutter, rotary or in a vise, trims a new rivet to length (p. 4-36). Do not buy it for removal.
The control is depth. Every step above comes back to drilling no deeper than the head. A stop or a guide is how to do that repeatedly.
Which rivet next, and which drill: see the rivet replacement calculator and the drill size chart.
What the listings add
Kit bits are the hole sizes. The #40, #30 and #21 in the removal kits are the 3/32, 1/8 and 5/32 rivet hole drills on the drill chart. The Handbook procedure uses a smaller bit; these guides rely on the depth limit instead. Follow the repair data.
Depth is the point of the guides. The Aircraft Spruce Loyds listing says there is "no need to drill much past the thickness of the rivet head", which echoes the Handbook's depth rule.
Largest size varies. The Aircraft Spruce kit's largest bit is #10, so it cannot remove 1/4 in rivets. The Loyds guide goes to 1/4 in with a letter D bit.
Thread decides what fits. The kits take 1/4-28 bits, the thread of the Yardstore threaded bits.
Questions people actually ask
What size drill removes a rivet?
The Handbook says one size smaller than the rivet shank, and Figure 4-98 says 1/32 in smaller, drilled only to the depth of the head. The kits and guides use the hole-size drills with a depth limit instead. The drill size chart lists the sizes.
How deep should I drill out a rivet?
To the depth of the head, with the drill at 90°. Deeper and the shank turns with the drill and tears the metal around the hole.
Do I need a drill stop?
The Handbook calls the spring stop a wise investment, since it stops excessive penetration and stops the chuck marring the skin. A guide kit stops at the head by design.
Can I reuse the hole for the same rivet size?
The Handbook says yes if the rivet was removed correctly and the hole kept its size and shape; if the hole is enlarged or deformed, go to the next larger size. See the rivet replacement calculator.
Limits of this guide
A comparison of published figures and FAA guidance.
- No tool was tested. Whether a guide stays centred is not in a listing. The site has no named technical reviewer yet, so there is no shop verdict.
- No pin or drift punch is listed here. The Handbook describes them; none was read from a seller.
- The repair data decides. The SRM or drawing says which rivet replaces which, and whether a hole may be reamed.
- Listings change. The seller's live page is the current one.
Sources
- FAA-H-8083-31, AMT Handbook — Airframe, Volume 1, Chapter 4 — pp. 4-45 to 4-46 (removal of rivets, Figure 4-98), 4-19 (drill stops), 4-7 (pin punch), 4-36 (rivet cutter).
- Seller listings — every figure in the table: Yardstore through the linked catalogue pages, and Aircraft Spruce through the linked product pages.