Vacuum Bagging: Every Layer and What It Does

A vacuum bag lets the atmosphere press the plies together while the air and volatiles leave. None of the bagging materials stays in the part, and each does one job: peel ply leaves a surface to bond to, release film stops things sticking, bleeder takes resin, breather carries the vacuum. Get the order or the bleed wrong and the laminate comes out porous or resin-starved.

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The stack, bottom to top

Section through a vacuum-bagged composite repair: tool, release film, repair plies, peel ply, perforated release film, bleeder, solid film, breather, vacuum bag, sealant tape and vacuum port
Section, detail of the stack edge, plan and parts list, after FAA-H-8083-31 Vol. 1 pp. 7-21, 7-22, 7-29 and 7-38. Your structural repair manual (SRM) or the resin maker's sheet sets the actual schedule.

Each layer: job, material, when it changes

#LayerWhat it doesUsual materialChanges when
1Tool or caul plateHolds the shape and gives the tool-side finish. A thin caul on top evens the pressure under a heat blanket.Aluminium caul, mould, tooling boardCuring on the aircraft: the structure itself is the tool
2Release agent or solid release filmThe cured part comes off the tool.Mould release; FEP or similar solid filmNever left out on a tool
3Repair pliesThe structure. The only layer that stays.Prepreg or wet layup fabricSet by the SRM ply table
4Peel plyCures with the part and is torn off just before the next bond or paint, leaving a clean, textured surface.Heat-set polyester (preferred), nylon, FEP, coated glassLeave it off only where nothing will be bonded or painted later
5Perforated release filmLets air, volatiles and some resin through its holes; stops the bleeder sticking to the part.Film with holes of a set size and spacingNo-bleed prepreg: a solid film instead
6BleederSoaks up the excess resin and gives the air a path. More plies take more resin.Glass cloth, nonwoven polyester, perforated PTFE-coated glassNo-bleed prepreg and edge-bleed wet layups: none
7Solid release filmStops the resin at the bleeder, so the breather stays dry and keeps breathing; protects a heat blanket.Solid filmBleedout method: left out (bleeder and breather are one)
8BreatherCarries the vacuum over the whole bag to the port. It has to touch the bleeder.Polyester felt: 4 oz below 50 psi, 10 oz for 50 to 100 psiAutoclave pressure: the heavier weight
9Vacuum bagThe airtight skin the atmosphere pushes on.Nylon or similar film rated for the cure temperature; reusable siliconeComplex shapes: pleats in the bag, or a silicone bag
10Sealant tapeSeals the bag to the part or the tool.Tacky tape rated for the cure temperatureEnvelope bag: the bag is sealed to itself
11Vacuum portConnects the pump. Sits on the breather, not on the repair.Through-bag valve; hose that will not collapseTwo ports when a gauge reads the bag separately

FAA-H-8083-31 Vol. 1 pp. 7-20 to 7-22 (caul plate, release agents, bleeder, peel ply, layup tapes, perforated and solid release film, breather weights, vacuum bag, vacuum equipment). The breather weights are the Handbook's; check every consumable's temperature rating against the cure.

Which bleed method

MethodUse it forOver the pliesWhat goes wrong
BleedoutWet layups and high-resin prepregs that need excess resin outPerforated release film, then bleeder/breatherToo much bleed: dry, resin-starved laminate
Controlled bleedMost heated repairs where the SRM gives bleeder pliesPerforated film, a counted number of bleeder plies, solid film, breatherToo many bleeder plies: resin-starved. Too few: resin-rich, heavy
No bleedPrepregs with 32 to 35 % resin content (most high-strength prepregs)Solid film taped at the edges with small gaps for air, then breatherAny bleed at all leaves the laminate short of resin
Edge (horizontal) bleedSmall room-temperature wet layupsNo film on top; a 2 in edge breather strip around the repairSqueegee left out: air and excess resin stay in the plies

FAA-H-8083-31 Vol. 1 p. 7-29, bleedout technique, controlled bleed, no bleedout and horizontal bleedout. The manual or the resin's technical sheet decides which one applies.

Peel ply, properly

Peel ply is a sacrificial fabric cured as the outermost ply. When it is torn off it takes the surface skin with it and leaves a clean, rough face that is ready to bond or paint, without sanding. That is why it goes on every surface that will be bonded later: the next repair ply, a doubler, a hinge, a fairing.

Tear it off just before the next bond, not when the part comes out of the bag. Until then it protects the surface from hands, dust and release agent.

The Handbook prefers heat-set polyester, because it does not shrink in the cure. Nylon, FEP and coated glass peel plies exist too. Two cautions: peel ply is hard to remove if it is overheated, and some coated types leave a contamination that spoils the bond. If a surface will be bonded, use the peel ply the manual or the adhesive maker names.

Perforated, micro-perforated or solid film

All three are release films: nothing sticks to them. The difference is what gets through.

Perforated film has holes at a set size and spacing. The bigger and closer the holes, the more resin passes into the bleeder. The amount also depends on the bleeder thickness, the resin viscosity and temperature, and the vacuum.

Pin- or micro-perforated film has very small holes. It lets air and volatiles out but passes little resin. Use it where you want the laminate to breathe and lose almost no resin.

Solid film passes nothing. It goes on a tool or caul so the plies do not stick to it, over the bleeder in a controlled bleed, and straight on the plies in a no-bleed cure, taped at the edges with small gaps so the air can still leave sideways.

Film makers code their perforation patterns differently. Pick the pattern from the maker's data sheet against the bleed the manual asks for.

Bagging a flat repair, step by step

1. Plan the bag first. Cut every layer before mixing resin or thawing prepreg. Each layer goes 1 to 2 in past the one under it, and the breather reaches the port position.

2. Tape the seal. Clean the surface around the repair and lay sealant tape on it, a few inches outside the breather. Leave the backing paper on until the bag goes down.

3. Lay up the plies, then the peel ply, the perforated film and the bleeder plies the manual asks for. Then the solid film if it is a controlled bleed, and the breather over everything, touching the bleeder.

4. Place the port on the breather, off the repair so it does not print into the laminate. Put a doubled pad of breather under it.

5. Lay the bag loose, with pleats at the corners and over any contour, so it reaches every hollow without bridging. Peel the tape backing and press the bag on with no wrinkles across the tape.

6. Pull vacuum and check it. Close the valve and watch the gauge: if it drops, find the leak along the tape and pleats before the resin starts to gel. The Handbook's typical cure keeps at least 22 inHg through the cure; the SRM may ask for more.

7. Cure to the schedule in the manual, with thermocouples at the repair, and log time, temperature and vacuum.

For UAV, model and homebuilt work

The same stack works on a mould: release agent and solid film on the tool, peel ply on every face that will be glued later, then perforated film, bleeder, breather and bag. For small wet layups, edge bleed with a squeegee is often enough.

Two things catch people out. Bag films and tapes are rated for a temperature, and cheap substitutes soften or leak under heat. And a laminate cured at room temperature is not as strong as the original 250 °F or 350 °F cured part, so it is not a like-for-like repair on certified structure.

Questions people actually ask

Is peel ply the same as release film?

No. Peel ply is a fabric that bonds lightly to the laminate and is torn off to leave a bondable surface. Release film does not bond at all; it just separates layers.

Do I need a bleeder with prepreg?

Only if the prepreg is a bleed system. Prepregs with 32 to 35 % resin are usually no-bleed: no bleeder, solid film on top, and the manual or the material sheet will say so.

How many bleeder plies?

The SRM gives the number. As a rule, thicker laminates need more, and too many leave the repair resin-starved.

Why did my laminate come out dry and white?

Too much resin was bled off: too many bleeder plies, a film with too much open area, or a no-bleed prepreg bagged as if it bled.

Why are there voids even though I had vacuum?

The breather was not continuous to the port, the bag bridged a corner, or there was a slow leak. Check the vacuum with the pump valve closed before the resin gels.

Can I reuse the breather or the bag?

Film bags, bleeders and breathers are single use; a silicone bag can be reused. A breather that took resin no longer breathes.

Limits of this guide

What the sources support, and no further.

  • The manual governs. Bleeder count, film type, vacuum level and cure come from the SRM or the material maker's sheet. This page explains the stack; it does not replace them.
  • No perforation codes. Each film maker codes its patterns differently; we do not list them.
  • Step sequence. The bag steps are the usual shop order built on the Handbook's materials and bleed methods; the Handbook does not print them as one numbered list.

Sources

  • FAA-H-8083-31, AMT Handbook — Airframe, Volume 1, Chapter 7 — pp. 7-20 to 7-22, caul plate, vacuum bag materials, vacuum equipment; p. 7-29, bleedout, controlled bleed, no bleedout, horizontal bleedout; pp. 7-30 and 7-31, vacuum-assisted impregnation, single-side and envelope bagging; p. 7-38, minimum 22 inHg during the cure.
Educational reference only. not approved data. Always consult the applicable SRM, AMM, or AC 43.13-1B and your certifying authority.
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