Scarf and Step Sanding: Ratios, Technique, Cleaning

A flush repair starts by removing the damaged laminate and tapering the sound edge back. A scarf is one smooth slope; a step is a staircase with one step per ply. The taper is long because it has to be: a gentle slope eases the load into the joint and keeps the adhesive in place. Sand it too steep and the repair fails at the bond line.

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Sanding a scarf slope in two passes with a disk holder
Cut the scarf slope steeper than needed first, then work it back to the outline. FAA-H-8083-31B, Fig. 7-65
Image coming soonRigid abrasive sanding block

Scarf and step, side by side

Where to buy
Section of a scarf taper and of a stepped taper in a laminate, plan of the sanded area with the finish removed beyond it, and parts list
Scarf section, step section, plan and parts list, after FAA-H-8083-31B pp. 7-35, 7-38 and 7-39. The thickness is exaggerated. Your SRM sets the ratio.

Prepare a scarf, one step at a time

StepActionWhat to do
1Trim the damageCut it out to a smooth round or oval shape with rounded corners. Do not cut into the plies that are staying.
2Sand the taperUse a flexible disc or rotating pad sander to get a uniform slope all round. Wear dust protection.
3Count the pliesCheck the number, orientation and material against the skin identification in the SRM, not against how the edge looks.
4Remove the finishTake it off past the border of the taper, including any conductive coating.
5CleanRemove the dust with dry compressed air and a vacuum cleaner, then wipe with a clean cloth and an approved solvent.
6DryWater in the core boils during a hot cure and blows the face sheets off. Moisture on the surface also inhibits the cure of the resin.
7Abrade and clean againAbrade lightly close to the scarf zone, then clean it once more.
CalculatorScarf Repair Ply CalculatorDo the taper and ply arithmetic and see it drawn.Open the calculator →

Scarf or step

ScarfStep
ShapeOne smooth slopeA staircase, one step per ply
ForFlush repairs; the most efficient load transfer: it aligns the neutral axis of parent and patchWhere the adhesive would run to the bottom of a scarf; external patches are usually stepped
CostA large amount of sound material comes out to keep the taper shallow; the plies must be placed very accuratelyApproximates the scarf with small steps, so the adhesive cannot run to the bottom
WatchCured outside an autoclave, the replacement plies can lose a lot of strengthExternal patches are usually stepped to cut the stress concentration at the patch edge
Ratio1:10 to 1:70 thickness to length; “such as 1:40”About one step per ply; “a 1-inch overlap for each ply” in some manuals

FAA-H-8083-31B pp. 7-35 (taper ratio, 1-inch overlap), 7-38 (scarf against step, 1:10 to 1:70) and 7-41 (external patches usually stepped). AC 43.13-1B p. 3-5 uses a 1 in step for fiberglass facings.

Taper numbers in the public documents

SourceNumberFor
H-8083-31B p. 7-351:40, or 1 in per plyHoneycomb face sheet, as an example of what “some manufacturers give”
H-8083-31B p. 7-381:10 to 1:70Solid laminates, thickness to length
AC 43.13-1B p. 3-3About 50 × the face ply thicknessFiberglass holes under 3 in, non-structural
AC 43.13-1B p. 3-51 in per layerFiberglass step joint

None of these is a design value. The ratio for your part is in its SRM; the Handbook says some manufacturers give a ratio and others a distance.

Quick check

A patch goes on the outside of the skin. Which shape is usual?

  1. A short, steep taper

    Not this one. A taper sanded too steep can fail at the bond line.

  2. Stepped

    Best fit. External patches are usually stepped, to cut the stress concentration at the patch edge.

  3. One long scarf

    Not this one. A scarf is the flush repair. It takes a lot of sound material out of the part.

On a real job, the SRM decides.

Sanding the taper

Trim the damage out to a smooth round or oval shape with rounded corners (Handbook p. 7-35; AC p. 3-1: avoid abrupt changes of section). Do not cut into the plies that are staying.

Taper sand with a flexible disc or rotating pad sander to a uniform slope all round (p. 7-35). The Handbook's figure for solid laminates says to machine the scarf to a knife edge, steeper than required, then work it back to the outline (p. 7-39). Fiberglass up to 3 in across can be taken out by power or hand sanding with 180-grit paper (AC p. 3-3).

Count the plies against the record. Number, orientation and material come from the skin identification in the SRM, not from what the sanded edge looks like (p. 7-36). Stop when the repair drawing says, and map the edge.

Wear dust protection: sanding fiberglass gives off dust that irritates skin and lungs, and it makes static that attracts dirt (AC p. 3-1).

Cleaning before the bond

Remove the finish, including any conductive coating, for at least 1 in beyond the border of the taper (Handbook p. 7-35).

Remove sanding dust with dry compressed air and a vacuum cleaner, then wipe with a clean cloth moistened with an approved solvent (p. 7-35). For a scarf zone that has been open for a long time, clean with solvent again before the bond (p. 7-39).

Dry it. Water in the core boils during an elevated-temperature cure and blows the face sheets off (p. 7-35); in the AC's words, any moisture left on the surface inhibits the cure of the resin (p. 3-2).

Abrade lightly with sandpaper close to the scarf zone and clean again (p. 7-39).

Worked example

A laminate of 8 plies at 0.0075 in cured each, taper 1:40. A made-up case; the ratio comes from your SRM.

  1. Thickness = 8 × 0.0075 = 0.060 in.
  2. Taper each side = 40 × 0.060 = 2.400 in.
  3. Across a 2 in hole the sanded zone is 2 + 2 × 2.400 = 6.800 in.
  4. Remove the finish to 6.800 + 2 × 1 = 8.800 in across.

A 2 in hole needs a 6.8 in taper and a finish removed to 8.8 in.

Questions people actually ask

Why not sand a short, steep taper?

A steep taper puts the load into the bond line in shear at the edge and wastes adhesive. The Handbook says scarf angles are small “to ease the load into the joint and to prevent the adhesive from escaping”.

Scarf or step for a thin face sheet?

The Handbook says honeycomb parts with thin face sheets are most effectively repaired by a bonded scarf, with a bonded external step patch as the alternative.

Can I repair a thick laminate with a scarf?

Not always. The Handbook notes that laminates up to an inch thick in highly loaded areas cannot be repaired effectively with a bonded scarf; bolted repairs are used instead.

Where does the ratio come from?

The SRM, or the engineering behind the repair. This page does not suggest one.

Limits of this guide

What the sources support, and no further.

  • The ratio and the step are the manual's. The numbers here are what the public documents print, not what to use.
  • Scope. The AC fiberglass numbers apply to non-structural fiberglass; the Handbook steps are not a substitute for the SRM.
  • Not covered. Bolted repairs and patches bonded to metal; sandwich core replacement.

Where to buy

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Distributors coming soon.

Sources

Educational reference only. not approved data. Always consult the applicable SRM, AMM, or AC 43.13-1B and your certifying authority.
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